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Distribution: Madagascar

Adult Size: Up to 12".

Sexing: Males are usually bigger and broader than females. You can also look at the bottom of the gecko and look for a "V" shape of pores. These pores will be more distinct in males than in females.

Active Period: Diurnal (Day dwellers)

Housing

Cage: Giant day geckos need a fairly large tank. They are the largest of all the day geckos. You can put a trio in a 40 gallon glass tank. The enclosure also needs to be tall because the geckos are arboreal and are able to climb the glass.

Substrate: Day geckos come from a tropical area so things like dirt w/ out fertilizer, peat moss, and bed-a-beast (coconut fiber) will work well. Make sure that the substrate is moist at all times. This will keep the humidity up. Don’t keep it saturated though because it can harvest bacteria.

Lighting: Since day geckos are diurnal they will need a full spectrum/UV fluorescent light 12 hours a day in summer and around 8 hours in winter.

Decorations: Decorations make the enclosure look very naturalistic. Put tropical plants in as well as wood for them to crawl around on. NOTE: The more decorations that you use the easier it is for the food item to hide in. You can put prey in a small dish toward the back of the tank.

Heat: 75° to 90°F

Humidity: 40 - 75%

Food & Water

Staple Diet: They’ll eat anything from crickets, mealworms, superworms, small cockroaches, silkworms and fruit baby food. Make sure to offer them fruit baby food because this becomes as wild adults this becomes the main food source.

Treats: Occasional pinkie mouse and waxworms.

Amount: Adults will eat about 6-8 crickets and mealworms. The smaller the gecko the smaller the food item and amount it will eat.

Size of Food: Adults giant days can eat adult 1" crickets. Juveniles can eat 1/2" to 3/4" crickets. Babies can eat up to 1/4" crickets. This is for crickets but this will apply for all other food items. Remember don’t feed anything more than half the width of the head.

Note:
- Make sure to gutload the food item prior to feeding. This will make a healthier insect and a healthier gecko. You can also add calcium supplement to the baby food once a week.

- Remove all uneaten food items especially crickets after the gecko has eaten. If the insects are left in with the gecko for a long time they will probably get hungry and start to dine on your gecko(s).

Water: Fresh water should be available at all times. This is very important because bacteria can start forming. Your gecko will drink this and could possibly pick up a bacterial infection.

Breeding

Size: Giant day geckos can be bred at 8"+.

Breeding Notes: It is best to keep one male and a few females per cage. The male will be very rough on the females. The breeders will need a cool down period with temps in the low to mid 70s. After they are warmed back up the male will mate with the females. After a successful mating the female will lay her eggs in about 1 month.

Eggs: A female will lay 1 or 2 eggs per clutch. When two eggs are laid they are usually stuck together. DO NOT TAKE THEM APART. If you try to take them apart you will possibly rip the egg and kill the embryo.

Incubation Temps: The eggs should be incubated at 83°F.

Incubation Time: The eggs will hatch in about 42 to 70 days.

Other Notes

Popularity: This specie of day gecko is the most popular. It is the largest, easiest to keep and breed out of the other day gecko species.

Color Morphs: Basically there is only one color of gecko. It usually has a green body with red spots. Some individuals have incredible amounts of red on their back and head. These animals are the ones that are very sought after.